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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.